Even the tippet could be visible too. Trout definitely notice line in the water over their heads. In remote sites, trout may not care but in areas where they are pressured by fishermen, this is not going to help you land them. Walking downstream whether it be wading or walking along the bank is less tiring than moving upstream.
Water always flows downhill. So if you are walking upstream, not only are you resisting the force of gravity but you are also technically walking uphill too.
This point ties in with the line visibility. Casting repeatedly over trout is going to cause them to notice. The line is visible. The sound of fly can be faintly heard whipping overhead. If you are fishing pressured fish, you may be better off fishing downstream. The primary exceptions are when fishing in fast flowing water for fatigue reduction and in heavily pressured fishing holes.
In those 2 scenarios, opt for downstream. Standing downstream of your target fishing hole allows you to use the current to help you.
The current will not only carry your fly to the trout but also help carry your trout to you once you set the hook. The line stripping will cause disturbance trout will notice.
Just understand trout are not oblivious to this. It just depends on how much they care. This is obvious but it needs mentioning. Decide which pockets or pools you will target when you come into a fishable area.
This will help you formulate where to cast. Polarized sunglasses are popular among trout fishermen because they allow you see beyond the water refraction into the water underneath the surface.
They will allow you to better see trout. Safety needs to be your biggest concern on the water. Fishermen drown and get injured every year while wading in streams and rivers.
Be smart and always make sure you have good footing. A good pair of felt-soled wading boots like these can help you maintain better footing and the felt makes your footsteps much quieter on rocks to keep from spooking fish. When fishing stream trout , look for any kind of disturbance in the water current. Trout will gather in pockets where they can rest in calmer water while having food pass by their faces in the current.
Place the yarn in the slip-knot loop and pull it tight. Use your fingers to "puff out" the individual fibers of the yarn, and treat the indicator with fly floatant. For instance, if you are fishing in water about 3 feet deep, adjust the position of the strike indicator to allow about 6 feet of leader between the indicator and the fly. In fast or deep water, double the water depth is usually about right, and in shallow or slower water a shorter distance is better.
These are rough estimates you'll need to fine-tune to your specific fishing situation. Pinch one small split-shot above the tippet knot and be prepared to readjust this weight frequently as you fish different water depths and speeds. You should also adjust your strike indicator position and therefore leader length as the depth changes.
The best anglers constantly change their weight and leader length as they fish to get the best drifts. Fish your indicator as you would a dry fly, and with the same presentations: upstream, across-stream, down-and-across, etc. The upstream and up-and-across presentation angles work best for most nymph anglers most of the time because they keep the fly, weight, and indicator in a relatively straight line and therefore in similar current speeds, helping to telegraph the strike.
When you cast directly across-stream, your nymph and indicator are likely to be in dramatically different current speeds, which can create slack and cause you to miss strikes, or cause your fly to drag so you don't get strikes. With an indicator and nymphs, use a slow smooth casting stroke with a wide loop to avoid tangles.
If possible, avoid false casting altogether, just lift the nymphs from downstream and with one smooth motion lob them upstream, letting the line shoot through your fingers.
When the nymph and indicator hit the water, transfer the line to under the index finger of your rod hand and strip in line as the indicator drifts toward you for better hook sets.
You can also raise your rod to take in slack, and in many cases it pays to keep the rod high to keep your line off the water and avoid currents that may pull the line and drag the indicator and flies.
Your goal is to create and maintain slack in your line so the indicator drifts freely, with no dragging influence from your end of the line.
However, if you have too much slack in the line you won't be able to pick it all up and set the hook when the strike comes. Have as little slack as possible to allow a dead-drift, and no more. Watch your strike indicator closely as it drifts in the current. Learn to differentiate between the steady "tick, tick, tick" of the split-shot bouncing along the bottom, and the pause or hesitation when the trout takes the flies.
In the high-stick nymphing technique described previously, you feel the flies ticking the bottom. With an indicator, there is much slack between you and the weight so you will see not feel whether your flies are on the bottom or if they are sweeping rapidly downstream.
Watching expert nymph fishers can pay big rewards: observe how they mend their line upstream to create slack and avoid big downstream bows in their lines that can pull the indicator; watch how they stack mend to extend the drift and how they flick their rod tip to throw slack into the line as the indicator drifts away from them; sometimes they hold their rod high to lift the line away from drift-ruining currents; when the fly is close, the water flat, or a strike is expected they may keep the rod tip low to allow for an effective strike.
Nymph fishing is a constantly changing game through just a single drift — one that requires attentive fishing and constant observation and evaluation. Once you become a good nymph fisherman, you can catch fish throughout the day and throughout the seasons, not just when insects are hatching and trout are rising.
Choosing a fly. Before you begin nymphing, wade into a shallow riffle and lift a few rocks from the bottom. Test rocks in midstream as well as a few along the shore to give you a good idea of what you'll find. In most trout streams you'll probably find many caddis cases built of small pebbles or twigs, a variety of small mayfly nymphs, and a few larger stonefly nymphs. Use nymph imitations that match the most prevalent food source.
Remember that while there may be many cased caddis, these insects don't end up in the water column as frequently as some other free-ranging insects. What you should be looking for are larger, or at least more robust mature nymphs that may have darker or swollen wingpads and seem ready to transform into adults. These insects are likely to be in the water column soon, and many more have likely been in the water column for days or weeks.
These are good choices to imitate. When trout are rising to a single type of emerging insect, using the right imitation can be critical.
On a hot summer afternoon when nothing is hatching, the best nymph patterns are not strict imitations of a single food type.
The best nymphs often represent a broad range of food items, they have a bead to get the fly down and provide a jigging action, and they often have flash to catch a trout's attention in deeper, turbulent water. Our favorite general-purpose nymphs include: John Barr's Copper John black, copper, and red; , beadhead Hare's Ear and Pheasant-tail nymphs , beadhead Prince Nymphs , San Juan Worms red and brown; , and egg imitations chartreuse, cheese, buff; The dictionary defines a streamer as a long narrow flag or pennant.
Streamer flies also tend to be relatively long and narrow and unlike hard metal conventional fishing lures they are made of mobile materials like bucktail, marabou, rabbit strips, and feathers that undulate in the water much like a flag flies in the wind. This movement allows fly fishers to imitate food sources that swim like minnows, sculpins, leeches, damselflies, and immature gamefish.
Possibly the most popular streamer of all time is the Woolly Bugger, developed by Russell Blessing on Pennsylvania's Manada Creek, and now used on streams around the world. The common denominator is the marabou tail and hackled chenille body. In small to medium rivers, fish your favorite streamer with a floating line and a 9-foot, stout tapered leader ending in 2X to 3X tippet.
To dead-drift a nymph you cast mostly upstream, allowing the current to create slack as the fly drifts toward you. You have the opposite intentions with a streamer, so a frequent strategy is to cast directly across-stream or down-and-across and allow the current to pull the slack out of the system and draw the fly across the river, broadside to the trout that are facing directly into the current. The current working against the fly makes it move and undulate, but most anglers add extra action by stripping in line as the fly moves across the current.
You can make short, fast jerky pulls to twitch the fly erratically like a sculpin; slow pulsing strips to swim the fly like a leech; or long, steady pulls to move the fly like a baitfish. Your fly will quarter across-stream and end up hanging in the current directly below you. Sometimes fish follow the fly, so let the fly pause and then give it a few extra twitches before you lift it from the water for your next cast.
Streamer fishing is a great way to move quickly through large expanses of water looking for the most aggressive fish. Take a step downstream after each cast so your fly tracks through unfished water on each cast. Streamers represent large potential food items, so trout often move a long way to chase and attack the fly.
When the water is clear and shallow, your streamer doesn't need to be deep to attract aggressive fish. Pinch a large split-shot or two to the tippet knot above the fly and you'll get a dramatic up-and-down jigging motion that trout find irresistible. When you pull the line, the fly swims upward, when you pause, the fly falls, inviting an attack.
The more weight you have on a streamer, the more pronounced this jigging action becomes — part of the reason the dumbbell-eyed Clouser Minnow is so effective on so many species and on so many waters. When a fish strikes, you will feel sudden tension or a strong tug on the line. Often the trout hooks itself, but just to make sure, continue stripping the fly toward you until you drive the hook firmly into its jaw. Then quickly allow the line to slide through your fingers as the fish takes line or else a big trout may break the line on its sudden first surge.
Streamers are tied on large, dangerous hooks. Be sure to crimp down the barbs on your streamers — not just to facilitate the safe release of the fish but also to make it easy on yourself should you accidentally hook yourself or a fishing companion. If the water is deep, especially fast, or turbid, you may need to use a sinking-tip fly line to get the streamer down to where the fish are.
This is also true if the water is cold, and the fish are unwilling to move far. With a sinking-tip line you fish a streamer the same way: cast across-stream and allow the fly to swim quartering across-stream below you. With a floating line, you use a relatively long monofilament leader to reduce the influence of the floating line and allow the fly to sink. When streamer fishing with a sinking-tip line, you want to increase the influence the fly line has on the fly, so use a short leader.
In many cases, 2 to 3 feet of monofilament leader is all you need from the end of a sinking-tip line. This helps your fly sink.
Moderators: pmcroberts , uniphasian. Privacy Terms. Quick links. This board is for discussing concerns of fishing bamboo fly rods. Examples would be, lines, actions, classic and modern makers actions and the like. I find both to be very different and speaking for myself , I prefer working my way downstream. I also seem to be a lot more effective this way When Its time to start heading back I usually work my way upstream but casting upstream is a different world.
I tend to dead drift nymphs the occasional dry if I see a fish rising. But my catching doesn't seem to come close as to when i go downstream. How about you guys That said, I have no set rules SO, it all depends on stream conditions and what type of fly I'm tossing at the time I suppose with streamers, downstream seems more comfortable.
So I fish upstream. Trout most always face upstream but if they are feeding subsurface ,they tend to be less aware of the bank and because I tend to cast futher with streamers and wet flys, I can fish downstream or across.
There are times when my tactics change though, and fishing downstream is an advantage, mainly due to reaching fish with the least amount of drag. It just depends on where I'm at and my approach in finding the most success Dries usually down, especially in the Swift, where the fish are so used to anglers that they get lonely when there aren't any around. I want to be sure that the first thing they see is the fly. If those browns with PHD's see you they're gone never to return.
The fish aren't very smart plus there's a lot more of them. If I can wade a fair sized river which isn't real deep I'll walk down the middle of the stream and fish to the banks on both sides which yields good results.
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